Note: The information contained in these instructions is for educational purposes only and cannot substitute for the advice of professional mechanic or authorized dealer. Don't attempt to repair your car if you don't have proper knowledge and tools, you can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged. Take your car to a dealer or a repair shop for proper installation.
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HHO Generator Installation Instructions
HHO Generator Safety Advice
Incorrectly installing or incorrectly using Water fuel technology may result in serious damage or body injury. Read and follow the instructions and safety precautions given here and in relevant places throughout to avoid these hazards. If you do not understand these instructions or do not like working on vehicles, have your mechanic do the installation.
It should take 20 to 30 minutes to install. Work outside, no smoking; make sure the engine is not hot. Wear goggles and gloves and only use professional tools; use common sense and general safety procedures used for automotive installations and maintenance. If you're not sure, ASK!
Yes, HHO is combustible – AFTER IT ENTERS THE ENGINE – that's the whole point. Yet your Water fuel system does NOT store hydrogen when installed properly, so there is
no fire hazard due to hydrogen storage. So again, don't let people who don't understand the system intimidate you or tell you about non-existent hazards. Water fuel technology cools down the engine and adds safety to any car.
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HHO Generator Installation
Mount the HHO Water fuel device in the engine compartment. It should be mounted flat and level, and secured is such a manner as to assure that it cannot bounce around when the vehicle hits bumps etc.
Position the device so that it can easily be accessed and can be conveniently removed and filled with water, or cleaned, serviced or inspected.
IMPORTANT: INSTALL THE DEVICE AWAY FROM HOT AREAS as much as possible. If you're not sure where that is, Harbor Freight Tools has a digital non-contact thermometer for under $7 (item 93983-2VGA). Use this tool to locate the coolest available place in the engine area.
We cannot give you an exact number here for what is “too hot”, because there is a combination of heating factors here: weather, engine, and the electrolysis process itself. All I can tell you that in two cases the electrolyzer mostly melted and only the glass survived. In both cases this occurred as a result of
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1) too much heat radiated by the engine through the air to the electrolyzer, and
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2) too much electrolyte in the HHO generator. There is a situation called Thermal Runaway, where an increase in temperature changes the conditions (in this case the rise in electrical current) that causes a further increase in temperature - leading to a destructive result. You can prevent this from happening by:
1. Use ONLY DISTILLED WATER. Filtered water are NOT distilled water!
2. Starting with no more than ½ teaspoon of baking soda, and add radiantly only when you're sure no excess heat is being generated.
3. Install away from heat. If this is not possible block the engine heat as much as possible by placing a heat shield (bubble wrap covered by aluminum foil) between the electrolyzer and the engine. Leave at least 1-2” air space around the electrolyzer.
A mounting bracket can be easily fashioned from copper and/or galvanized plumber’s strap. (Not supplied.) In other cases a small rubber pad (not supplied and usually not necessary) and/or two bungee cords (might be supplied) may be adequate. Rarely there may be vehicles that do not have enough space in the engine compartment to mount the device.
A possible solution is to use the area in front of the radiator. Fasten the device to the car's frame or anything other the radiator, belts or moving parts, and make sure that it does not touch the radiator. That's it for the mechanical installation and location. Now let's move for connections and supply lines. The HHO device is operated by vacuum pressure from your vehicle’s engine, plus 12 Volt supply from your vehicle’s electrical system.
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Vacuum and the HHO Generator
note: due to high efficiency of our units most our clients do not connect to vacuum line. The idea was to suck the gas out from the generator but our generators are strong enough to push the gas. You may simply try to connect directly from generator to your air intake first.
Vacuum lines are supplied from the engine to various car systems, and you should best use the system that gets the highest vacuum. The idea is to Suck the HHO into a place such as the Carburetor or the Intake Manifold, where it can be automatically mixed with the existing fuel/air mixture. Connect the output to the carb/intake manifold.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE THE BRAKES VACUUM LINE. This is usually a very thick black hose that connects between the engine and the Brake Vacuum Booster (usually a large drum on the firewall on the driver side): The PCV valve* line usually makes a good connection.
Vehicles with EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) should also be connected at or near the intake manifold. * Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, is a one-way valve that ensures continual refreshment of the air inside a gasoline internal combustion engine's crankcase.
WARNING: DO NOT SHORTEN THE HOSE between the engine intake and the generator. Keep the line (hose) at least 4 ft long. This length must be kept to enhance safety and prevent damage to the device.
A universal vacuum line T-Connector is usually provided as well as a length of vacuum hose to make the connection. A wide range of vacuum fittings is readily available at any auto parts store (plastic fittings will do for this use). Note that the Universal Vacuum T-Connector is...well, universal. Its edges are usually too small for the
hose, and should be trimmed (edge cut off) with a knife.
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HHO Generator and the Electrical System
note: optionally you may install a ON/OFF switch into your cabin so you can turn the system on or off more conveniently - we still recommend connecting the positive wire to vehicle's electric system that is utilizing the ignition. Generator Positive goes to fuse - to on/off switch- to vehicle's electric switch with ignition.
The HHO generator is designed to operate on 12 Volts. Refer to the wiring diagram below. If you’re not sure consult your auto mechanic (electric), or contact us for help.
1. Connect the black terminal of the device to the negative terminal of the vehicle’s battery, using the wire WITHOUT FUSE (black wire). If the battery is too far, connect it to the firewall or extend the wire all the way to the battery.
2. Identify a point in your vehicle’s electrical system which has a 12 Volts (positive) present ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS ON (Position 2 of the Ignition Switch), such as the starter solenoid, window wiper motor, or similar circuit.
3. Turn the switch off and take out the key. Connect positive (12 Volts) to the red terminal of the device, using the FUSED wire supplied (red), to the point you’ve identified above.
4. To protect the wiring from long term damage, you can now put the newly installed wires into what's called “split flex tubing”. You can find it in all major hardware stores such as Ace, Home Depot. Don't buy it online ($5 +S&H) because in the shop it's only 99 cents for 10 ft.
NOTES:In most newer vehicles the fuses are located in a box, in the engine compartment. You can just plug the wire into the fuse holder and reinsert the fuse. Usually it is a 25 Amp or 30 Amp ignition circuit, that we use. In some older cars where there was no fuse box to connect to, the wiper motor was found most useful as a supply point. Just splice into the SWITCHED 12 Volts and it works well. ?
In some cars the electrical system may be in reverse (RED wire to the body of the car, or to the battery itself). If it gets confusing, consult an auto electrician who is familiar with your specific model.
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Final Steps of HHO Generator Setup.
Fill the jar with DISTILLED WATER, leaving about 3/4” (0.750") of free space at the top. Start with 1/4 or 1/2 teaspoon of Electrolyte (pure Baking Soda) to the HHO Generator and increase as needed up to 2 teaspoons.
HHO Unit should draw about 7 AMPS of power. More Baking Soda may be added but, make sure the units operate cool and don't overheat.
Our Units are designed for temperatures over 300F - competitors material is rated up to 130F.
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Cold Weather and Freezing
If you encounter freezing temperatures the system's electrolyte may freeze. That is why it is important not to over fill the generator. Our Units are equipped with a safety plug that will release excessive pressure or ice if required.
To help avoid freezing you may replace distilled water with windshield wiper fluid (blue fluid) other wise the system will still melt the ice within few minutes after its started without any damage.
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Test Run Your HHO Generator-alternative
1. Start with NO electricity, by taking out the fuse or leaving one of the terminals disconnected (make sure it doesn't touch metal parts of the car to prevent fuse blowout).
2. Turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve (sometimes called “Bubbler Cap” or just “Bubbler”) fully CLOCKWISE. Then turn it half-turn COUNTER-CLOCKWISE.
3. Turn the engine and watch the bubbling action coming out of the lower end of the thin tubing inside the device. Gradually turn the Vacuum Adjustment Valve and watch the bubbling action in the jar. Adjust the valve until there is a small amount of bubbling action.
4. Turn off the engine.
5. Connect the electricity by putting the fuse on and making sure all connections are tight (hand force only).
6. Start the engine again and watch the electrolyzing action between the spiral electrodes. A yellowish gas (HHO) will start forming and flow toward the top of the jar.
7. Within a short time (roughly 30 seconds), you will notice that the engine starts to sound quite differently. It will sound smoother and quieter. Its RPM may be unstable for a couple minutes. This is normal – the HHO is starting to change the combustion cycle and cancels the pinging – and the engine is now adjusting to the changes.
Congratulations! Your HHO Generator system is now ready to go! To purchase an HHO Generator,
visit our online store.
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Spark Plugs to Avoid !
AVOID IRIDIUM AND PLATINUM SPARK PLUGS
, no matter what your mechanic recommends. He might not realize that you're now in the upper league of the MPG game...with different needs. Iridium and Platinum react badly to Hydrogen. Yes, and another thing – before installation, reduce the spark gap to 0.03”, or 0.75 millimeter. This will definitely maximize the performance of whichever plug you have chosen. Again, do this even if the car's book or plug pamphlet say otherwise.
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What is MAP/MAF ?
If your vehicle has a MAP / MAF sensor, you need an Enhancer. Vehicles newer than 1996 (even some older )have this sensor. However, diesel engines do not have one.
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HOW DOES THE MAP SENSOR WORK?
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor signal is electrically used in a similar way to the use of Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor signal (although internally it is built differently). It takes a 5 volt signal from the ECM or ECU (Environmental Control Unit or Module) computer, and returns a lower direct current signal in accordance with the vacuum in the engine. A higher output voltage means lower engine vacuum, which is then calculated as “more fuel is needed”. Lower output signal indicates higher engine vacuum, which requires less fuel.
It's not just fuel control. The MAP sensor signal gives the computer a dynamic indication of engine load. The computer then uses this data to control not only fuel injection, but also gear shift and cylinder ignition timing.
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As acceleration increases, the voltage
output for the MAP Sensor increases and then decreases when decelerating.
The Enhancer is connected between the MAP Sensor output signal and the ECM.
The Enhancer reduces the output voltage and therefore reduces the amount of fuel sent to the engine.
Checking The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Purpose:
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is used to monitor intake manifold pressure (engine load). It sends voltage signals to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) that represent the engines varying load conditions.
Theory/Operation:
ECM (Electornic Control Module) supplies 5 volt sensor reference voltage. The sensor, connected to manifold vacuum at throttle body, converts intake manifold pressure into voltage.
A silicon crystal in the MAP sensor senses changes in manifold absolute pressure. This crystal changes the resistance of the sensor depending upon the manifold absolute pressure acting upon it, and the change in resistance affects the amount of voltage that the sensor allows to flow back to the ECM.
Manifold absolute pressure and voltage to ECM are directly proportional (manifold absolute pressure increases, low vacuum, voltage to ECM increases and vice versa).
Sensor resistance and manifold absolute pressure are inversely proportional (as manifold absolute pressure increases, (low vacuum), sensor resistance decreases and vice versa).
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Typical Readings:
Sensor output voltage range is 0.5 to 4.5 volts.
Output voltages between 0.5 and 1.5 volts indicate a high vacuum (low pressure) situation, such as idle or deceleration.
Output voltages between 1.5 and 3.0 volts indicate a medium level of vacuum (pressure) such as a cruise or slight acceleration condition.
Output voltages between 3.0 and 4.5 volts indicate a low vacuum (high pressure) situation such as hard acceleration or a mechanical failure.
Any reading of 0 volts or over 4.5 volts indicates a problem.
NOTE: The following procedure tests the MAP sensor only.
- Inspect the rubber nipple (fitting) from the MAP sensor to the throttle body. Repair as necessary. CAUTION: When testing the MAP sensor, be sure that the harness wires are not damaged by the test meter probes.
- Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the MAP sensor connector terminal B. With the ignition switch ON, and the engine OFF. Output voltage should be 4 to 5 volts.
- Test the MAP sensor output voltage at the MAP sensor connector terminal B at a hot, neutral idle speed condition. The voltage should drop to 1.5 to 2.1 volts.
- Test MAP sensor supply voltage at sensor connector terminal C with the ignition ON. The voltage should be approximately 5 volts (±O.5 V).
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Installation !
